Category: Africa

Mary Coulson, photographer and long term friend of Wildfoot Travel has just come back from Tuli in Botswana, The Mashatu Game Reserve and in particular the incredible Mashatu Lodge which is high on many wildlife photographer’s bucket lists. Here Mary gives us a first hand account of her trip.

The excitement and anticipation as you climb up into the land cruiser for the first early morning safari drive raises the adrenaline levels so high that all senses are on full alert. Is that a leopard’s tail hanging from that Mashatu tree? Was that a Banded Mongoose running up the river bank? Take a deep breath and pace yourself as you’ll be out for a few hours reaching saturation level with all the wildlife that Mashatu Game Reserve has on offer.

The guides and tackers on the game drive have a vast knowledge of the fauna and flora underpinned with a genuine desire to give their passengers an experience of a lifetime. Ronald and Commando were no exception, patiently answering questions and with a subtle sense of humour there was always a pleasant camaraderie on the drive. I was continually impressed with how Ronald would always take into consideration the light and backdrop for good photographs with all sightings. A lasting memory will be the sundowners at a high vantage point where you can absorb the orchestra of the evening chorus against a magnificent backdrop of a panoramic African sunset.

Mashatu Game Reserve is one of the best kept secrets in Southern Africa. This 29,000 hectare block is tucked away in the South-eastern corner of Botswana, at the confluence of the Limpopo and Sashi Rivers. It is in one of the driest areas with an annual rainfall of 12 -14 in. However, despite the extreme environment, conditions are ideal for game viewing with the vast open plains scattered with small trees and bushes for example mopane, acacia karrooand Shepard’s trees. There are remnants of riverine forest dominated with Mashatu trees and croton thickets, marshes (in the wet season), rocky outcrops and sandstone ridges.The area covers many ecosystems leading to a high biodiversity of flora and fauna.These areas are explored with game drives across flat sandy plains and driving over rocky outcrops and along dry river beds. Low ratio four-wheel drive was required to negotiate up and down the steep sides – this adds to the excitement of the experience! On one of these excursions we met a leopard as we neared a curve in the river bed.  Unperturbed she walked straight passed us up the riverbank and vanished into a thicket.  We surmised that she had some cubs hidden in the thick scrub.

Having lived half my life in Africa I fully appreciate how privileged one is to see members of the cat family. In Mashutu the opportunities to view and photograph leopards, lions and cheetah is breath-taking. We sat with a pride of lions on various occasions and were able just to observe the interactions between the five cubs with their mothers and a handsome black – maned lion. Similarly, with two separate cheetah families. We were fortunate to see leopard in various situations from walking along the river bed with us to trying to escape the heat on the branch of a Mashatu tree. The photographs from these viewings can be exceptional.

Mashatu caters for professional and serious amateur photographers. There is a Mashatu photo vehicle which has been customised for the game reserve environment. There are sliding gimbal heads and bean bag arches and to cater for the African dust there are cushioned and dust waterproof storage compartments. There will always be a specialist photographic guide and field ranger to accompany you.

One of the highlights of the trip was a couple of visits to the Matebole Hide. This consists of a couple of shipping containers dug into the ground next to the waterhole with viewing windows level with the water surface. Equipped with beanbags this allows for photographs with a unique perspective of the animals coming down to drink. The wonderful Janet Kleyn, the resident photographer, welcomes you to the hide. She guides and assists you as required and her expertise aids advanced and beginner photographers alike. Even those who just accompany the serious or professional photographers are provided with mobile phone tripods and pointers on how to get a good photograph. The evening session was about to end as we neared sundown when suddenly around the bushes came a herd of elephants. They were at full elephantine trot in their eagerness to quench their thirst. The proximity of these animals was awe-inspiring.

With the rich biodiversity of Mashatu each game drive would reveal unusual and unique insights of the African bush. One of these was a peek through the window into the private lives of the hyena clan. The clan have organised a nursery, kitchen, spa and local food source. The den was situated about 200m from a series of pools fed by a spring upstream. The hyenas had stored sections of carcasses in one pool and we were entertained with the retrieving of the meat and generally play fighting. Some of the characters seemed to really enjoy the whole spa experience.

The enjoyable safari experience is underpinned by the excellent accommodation and catering facilities. There are two options with the Main Camp and Tented Camp which are quite different in design and atmosphere. The Tented camp is more intimate with the bushveld with no obvious fences and allows a true safari experience of luxury in the bush known as glamping. There is a breakfast and lounge area on the terrace. Evening drinks at the bar allowed the recounting of the day’s experiences among those staying at the camp and meeting the different guides. The Boma presents a great setting for the evening meal. As the ambient temperature was in the high 30’s there was a definite trend to sit furthest from the fire! The swimming pool at the tented camp is a welcomed relief after a hot game drive or mountain bike safari.

I did a mountain bike safari along elephant footpaths early one morning with Mario, an experienced guide and biker. I found out that dried elephant dung is as hard as rock! I thoroughly recommend doing this as you immediately in tune with the environment and must be aware of the wildlife. Mario was in radio contact and had a rifle for safety purposes. For those of you who are experienced horse riders there is an opportunity to go horse riding in the bush. Both camps also offer bush walks.

The Mashatu Lodge (Main camp) has 14 air conditioned luxury suites set near a waterhole. It is bigger and more suited to families with a swimming pool. Clients can enjoy the sounds of the African bush but within the safety of an unobtrusive fence. There are beautiful views along the walkway from the bar (Gin Trap) to the new infinity pool.

Mashatu Game Reserve is easily accessible. I flew from Oliver Tambo airport to Polokwane, an hours flight and then travelled with Copper Sun courier to Pont’s Drift on the border with Botswana. I was then met by my guide and field tracker and arrived at the Tented Camp after an hours drive through the game reserve.

In conclusion I look back on my Mashatu Safari Experience as a lifelong memory of unique wildlife sightings underpinned with new friendships.

Take a look at more photos from Mary’s amazing trip here:

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Check out our trips to Botswana here

Sitting around a pit-fire on a decked terrace at a five-star safari lodge in the Okavango Delta, crystal glass filled with ice-cold gin and tonic in hand, my friend turned to me and said “I think I miss mobile camping”. We all laughed a lot but we all understood what she meant. Mobile safari is a very different experience to a stay at a safari lodge. Don’t get me wrong, I love the creature comforts that these lodges provide but there is also something magical about camping in the bush that leaves you with a deeper connection and understanding of the African environment.

What can I expect from the accommodation?

There are a number of mobile safaris on offer with variable sizes of tents, facilities and service. I personally prefer a good-sized tent where you can walk around with an open-air en-suite bathroom. Bathrooms tend to be basic with a bucket shower and dug out loo with a fixed seat. However, showering in the bush under a bucket filled with warm water heated over a camp fire, with the possibility of a thirsty elephant’s trunk appearing (it has been known), is simply joyful. A shaded veranda is also a perfect extension, where you can sit after lunch studying Birds of Botswana, become engrossed in the novel, The Number 1 Ladies Detective Agency which is set in Botswana or simply snooze.

How does an average day look?

The average day on a mobile safari works similarly to camps and lodges with an early start to maximise on game viewing. Animals are most active at dawn and dusk as the heat of the midday sun is too challenging for most. Guests will break for tea and coffee and return to the camp around midday. Lunch is served early at camp allowing time for a siesta and many guests prefer to take a bucket shower in the afternoon break, as it is warm and light. Afternoon tea is served with homemade cake before the afternoon game drive, usually setting off around 3.30pm. No game drive is complete without sundowners where beer, wine or G&T’s are usually served with snacks.

How is the food?

Dinner in camp is cooked over fire and the food is delicious, expect to be surprised with cheese soufflé, fillet of beef and chocolate volcano cake. Evenings in camp are simply enchanting. Guests bond with each other around a campfire and life-long friendships are often formed. The skies are clear due to no light pollution, so star gazing is exceptional. The sound of lions kilometres away echo across the plains and nearby hippos can be heard grunting and splashing.

Will there be phone or internet reception?

There is no mobile telephone connection, no wi-fi and very limited facilities. This can be hard to adapt to, for all of about 30 minutes, and then you embrace it, the freedom of being totally unconnected but actually re-connected. You start to feel closer to nature and the surrounding environment and you notice more; you are more alert to your surroundings, and that is very useful in the African bush.

What’s the difference between Private and small group scheduled departures?

A Private safari will be completely tailored to your requirements where a scheduled departure is a fixed itinerary with set departure dates. Numbers on fixed departures are capped at 7 guests maximum and there is more flexibility for private departures.

Type of vehicles used

All vehicles are well maintained and there are always spare vehicles on hand and mechanics based in Maun to ensure that no safari is ruined by mechanical failure. Expect open air vehicles and with a maximum number of seven pax, on any fixed departure itinerary everyone is guaranteed a window seat and uninterrupted view.

Calibre of the guiding

Expect an extremely high level of detailed knowledge on flora and fauna from your guide. Many have specialist knowledge to keep even the most passionate of birders fully informed. Letaka Safaris also own and operate The Okavango Guide School, responsible for training a number of guides that go on to work across some of Botswana’s most prestigious camps and lodges, resulting in the guides being at the top of their game.

Example of the various routes and ‘from’ prices based on 2019 departures

Mobile camp itineraries are usually grouped in three night bundles, allowing time for guests to settle and explore a park or reserve before moving camp to the next location. Fixed departures are available for three, six and nine nights. Itineraries explore the Okavango Delta including Moremi, Khwai and Chobe National Park and there is also a Blooming Deserts itinerary that runs from February to June exploring the Central Kalahari.

Prices start from US$2,065 for three nights, US$3,525 for six nights and US$5,375 for nine nights, on a full-board game package including drinks.

Specialist Photo and birding departures

For travellers passionate about birding and photography, there are set departure itineraries throughout the year that cater to these hobbies. They are open to amateurs and professionals alike.

Who books mobile safaris?

Mobile safaris are suitable for all ages, although there is a minimum age of five on private departures and 12 on fixed departures. There is no single supplement for the first three individual guests on any fixed departure safari making it a great option for solo travellers. This is a great holiday for couples and can be very affordable for groups. There is also a family tent set up for families with younger children. Mobile camping leaves no trace of settlement once the group leaves making it an environmentally sound choice.

Tips for mobile safari:

• Take a head torch, there may be solar charged LED lighting but this is not adequate to read a book at night.
• Pack a few luxury cosmetics, whilst there is usually shower gel and shampoo provided, there is something rather decedent about lathering in Jo Malone under a bucket shower in the open air in the African Bush.
• Pack a decent pair of binoculars; it can greatly enhance your viewing experience. My preferred pair are Leica Sports Optics’ Ultravid HD-Plus they are compact and lightweight and provide outstanding contrast when viewing animals from a distance, plus they are extremely robust.
• Pack light, staff will provide a laundry service and fewer clothes makes it easier to be organised whilst camping. Be aware that staff will not wash underwear.

Check out more photos from our mobile safaris in the gallery

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