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Indian Adventure 10

Simon from WILDFOOT spent his summer taking part in an Indian wildlife holiday. Throughout his journey, he recorded his highlights for you to peruse on the WILDFOOT blog. In this update, Simon finishes his adventures in Keoladeo Park and boards a train to Ranthambore.

Part 10

As I finish my day at the Keoladeo Park, I soon look forward to my accommodation. Laxmi Vilas is a mid-standard property and close to the National Park. There are two parts, an older original part which has been built on to in recent years whilst keeping the same Heritage style.

The property was once a haveli – a kind of local manor house for heads of the village or area in years gone by. Some of these turn to ruin because of a lack of funding, but some are turned into small and quirky guesthouses and hotels like the Laxmi. This haveli is particularly attractive due to the National Park on its doorstep, and I am pleased to spend the night here before I awake for my journey to Ranthambore.

The next morning, I embark on my five-hour journey. There are air-conditioned seats and beds, which are particularly useful for those wishing to travel overnight. I have enjoyed all of my train journeys in India so far, as I find that each one is a real social occasion offering the chance to meet diverse Indian personalities.

The journeys are also an opportunity to share food and discussion if the language allows. On more than one occasion, passengers have wanted to share whatever local delicacy they have been enjoying, so I take my seat and await my next culinary experience on my journey to Ranthambore.

In Simon’s next instalment, he will explore the Ranthambore National Park. If you are interested in following in Simon’s footsteps and taking part in your own Indian wildlife holiday, rely on WILDFOOT, the luxury travel company, to arrange everything you need for the adventure of a lifetime. In addition to organising flights, accommodation and transfers, we work closely with our partners around the world to deliver authentic, intimate wildlife experiences for you to enjoy.

Indian Adventure 9

This year, WILDFOOT’s Simon took part in an Indian adventure. He documented his journey throughout for you to read on the WILDFOOT blog. In his latest update, Simon spends the day at the Keoladeo Ghana National Park.

Part 9

After spending the night in Agra to see the Taj and the Red Fort, we travel by road to Bharatpur, where I took the train to Ranthambore. We stop at the Keoladeo Ghana National Park. The Park attracts a huge amount of UK and worldwide birders every year, so I am keen to get inside and explore for myself.

After a short journey to the National Park, we meet our birding guides, who spoke very good English on the whole. If you are a keen birder, this activity is a must – even more so if you have two or three days to spare. The park is open throughout the year, including during the monsoon season, while the peak breeding period is between August and October.

I was particularly interested in finding out more about the Siberian crane, but unfortunately, the last sighting of this species in India was in the winter of 2002. The migratory paths for this species included Afghanistan, where it is thought that these birds will have been hunted. As well as that, Keoladeo Park has experienced terrible droughts in the recent years, and it is thought that this was another factor as to why the birds chose not to return.

On a more positive note, you will find around 350 species of bird at Keoladeo and if you are a keen birder, the WILDFOOT team recommends that you enjoy at least a two-night stay here to take in everything on offer. There are many routes within the park, including boat trips around the shallow lake that takes up over a third of the 27 square kilometres of the park.

The park is open from 6am to 6pm, and it is very easy to hire a good guide at the entrance of the park. Of course, on my journey, a guided tour was organised by WILDFOOT for my convenience, which made the outing all the more enjoyable.

In the next instalment of Simon’s travels, he will spend a night in a hotel close to Keoladeo Ghana National Park, and then begin his journey to Ranthambore by train. To find out more about taking part in your own Indian adventure, get in touch with the WILDFOOT team today.

Indian Adventure 8

Simon from WILDFOOT spent his summer enjoying a trip across India. He recorded his travels to give you an understanding of Indian culture, and we are serialising his adventure in a series of blog posts on the WILDFOOT blog. Today, Simon spends his night in Jaipur and learns more about the fascinating Bishnoi religious tribe.

Part 8

As part of my Indian big cats adventure, I spend the night in Jaipur and enjoy an eventful evening at Manoj’s family home. I experience a delicious authentic Indian evening meal with all of the family around the table.

Harsh sits with me and discusses the wildlife that we have been lucky enough to observe so far. I’ve already read a few pages of the copy that Harsh has written about a religious tribe whose focus is on total conservation. What surprises me about this sect, called Bishnoi, is that they were founded in 1486 and therefore formed the earliest conservation movement ever.

The sect is still prevalent in certain areas of India today, and abides by 29 life rules such as ‘be kind to all living beings’, ‘green trees not to be felled’, ‘no meat to be consumed’ and ‘clean firewood before you burn it so you don’t kill insects’.

This Hindi tribe have given their lives to protect green trees and made several sacrifices throughout the centuries, including in 1604 when two ladies chopped off their heads to protest against the felling of Khejri trees. It’s still remembered to this day by the Bishnoi and is a main inspiration of the movement.

Similar brave sacrifices have since followed, including in 1730 when a major protest against the felling of trees to build a fort in Rajasthan saw men, women and children hug trees as axes fell. One can only imagine the blood spilled by brave souls from over 84 surrounding Bishnoi villages. By that time, 363 Bishnoi lives were spent.

Harsh follows some of the sect’s 29 rules and holds dear to his heart similar conservational principles to the Bishnoi. Harsh has undertaken great research on the movement and is now working on a book centred on the religious principles of the Bishnoi people. Watch this space!

In Simon’s next installment, he travels to the Keoladeo Ghana National Park. To find out more about taking part in your own Indian wildlife holiday, don’t hesitate to contact WILDFOOT’s experts today.

Indian Adventure 7

This year, Simon from WILDFOOT went on an Indian adventure and documented his journey for you to read on the WILDFOOT blog. In this update, Simon makes a journey to Jaipur by train.

Part 7

I travel to Jodhpur station at 5:30am for my 6:10 am trip to Jaipur by early morning train. Built in the 1900s, Jodhpur was one of the most important railway inclusions for the British rulers in Victorian India. The Indian railway system was started in 1857, and the first line was Bombay to Rajkot in southern Gujarat, so it is great to be here and to take in some of the history.

We have individual seats booked in an air-conditioned carriage, but take a peek at the unreserved non-air conditioned carriage. We imagine sitting in the carriage in the midday heat of 43 degrees today. During the height of the summer, the temperature is likely to top 50 degrees, so we are glad we opted for an air conditioned carriage to make our journey!

Comparing my journey to UK trains, I am surprised to note that train doors are generally left open and passengers are free to lean out of the door regardless of speed. Manoj, my travelling companion, reminds me that there are no full stops in India, referencing the title of a book by author Mark Tully, who has written prolifically about India. In other words, India is a never-ending surprise and around every corner, there are scenes and experiences delivered as if on cue!

I’ve not scratched the surface in my comments as to the unique Indian culture surrounding you everywhere you turn, but my wildlife tour of North West India has kept me highly entertained and educated so far.

As we take our seats on the train, we see that two ladies are eating food in front of us. They insist that we share with them, so we enjoy authentic Indian cuisine on our journey to Jaipur. Shiva Rathi is an industrial and engineering student from Jodhpur, travelling with her professor and mother Rashmi Rathi. The journey demonstrates the exceptional kindness of the Indian people, especially on Indian trains. We decide to offer them a cup of chai when the chai wallah comes through the carriage by way of thanks.

In Simon’s next installment, he will spend a night in Jaipur and learn more about the Bishnoi religious tribe. If you are interested in finding out more about your own possibilities for an Indian wildlife adventure, get in touch with the WILDFOOT team today.

Indian Adventure 6

Earlier this year, Simon from WILDFOOT enjoyed an adventure across India. He recorded updates throughout his journey for you to read on the WILDFOOT blog. In this update, Simon travels from Bera to Jodhpur and spots some bar-headed geese.

Part 6

Today, I travel from Bera to Jodhpur by road. We already know that northwest India offers rich and diverse birding and wildlife, and we stop en route to see some bar-headed geese, demoiselle crane and blackbuck, which are an endemic breed only found in certain parts of Rajasthan.

The demoiselle cranes are smaller than the common crane, with a height of 90cm compared to a huge 120cm with the other species. Demoiselles are migratory visitors to India and enjoy the north-west region particularly for the arid and stony habitats. We found a group of around 500 on a manmade wetland area 40 minutes outside Jodhpur, which made for great photographs.

The blackbucks are very timid creatures but manage to creep to around 100 metres of us before they become jittery. There are around 12 in total, including four males.

I know little about this endemic species, but tomorrow night I’m lucky enough to be visiting Mr Harsh Vardhan. He had a tremendous influence on the Indian birding and wildlife conservation movement in the 1970s, and his advice to the government had a major influence on the creation of the original National Parks, including Ranthambore.

Harsh is positively known in conservation circles and his name has come up everywhere we have travelled up to this point. I am looking forward to meeting him, especially as he is the father of my travelling companion and WILDFOOT’s wildlife specialist partner in India, Manoj Vardhan.

In the next instalment of Simon’s adventure, he travels from Jodhpur to Jaipur by train. If you would like to find out more about starting your own Indian wildlife adventure, don’t hesitate to get in touch with the WILDFOOT team today.

Indian Adventure 5

Simon from WILDFOOT enjoyed a wildlife adventure holiday in India this summer and recorded his journey for you to peruse on this blog. In the latest part of the series, Simon enjoys a birding walk through the village and finds out some welcome information about a local wildlife reserve…

Part 5

This morning, in what I feel is unquestionably good news, I discover that a piece of land has been successfully pulled from the open clutches of a surface mining company, which had previously been ‘assisted’ by a corrupt government official, who is now resting behind bars contemplating a lengthy spell.

At lunch time, I visit the site and see that it is now a rural camp that has just been completed and opened for those in search of wildlife encounters. The rich landscape is home to leopards, but also hyenas, wolves and a whole host of birds, with several endemic species to be observed.

There are five twin and double bungalows built within a spacious location, a stone’s throw away from the recent epic sightings of my trip.

The couple behind this eco project are Shatrunjay and Katyayani Singh, who are also thankfully wildlife conservationists and two more worthy champions of the local wildlife. As well as setting their sights on leaving a legacy of wildlife protection, the couple are looking to encourage self-sufficiency with local goat farms and are investigating creating a local gastro cheese making initiative that can hopefully be introduced by local farmers offering support and know-how.

Shatrunjay is an accomplished photographer for National Geographic and an expert in wildlife and bird guiding. He also knows the regions exceptionally well and has a great command of English, so he is an excellent source of useful information during this part of my Indian wildlife holiday.

Not only does Shatrunjay offer twice a day safaris to view the local leopard, but he also takes small groups of guests on birding walks in the scrub, looking for endemic species as well as animal activity and movement on foot.

The accommodation is the best quality around, offering a bungalow twin and double room come large lounge with two shower rooms. It is well appointed and tastefully done, which makes settling down after a busy day of sightseeing all the more enjoyable.

In his next blog post, Simon travels three hours to the city of Jodhpur. If you would like to find out more about what it takes to embark on your own adventure holiday, simply get in touch with the India travel experts at WILDFOOT.

Indian Adventure 4

Wildfoot’s Simon spent his summer in India as part of a wildlife adventure holiday, and recorded his journey for you to peruse on the Wildfoot blog. Below, Simon explores the village of Bera that is packed with wildlife and has been ‘frozen in time’.

Part 4

This morning, we head out on a safari at 5.30am to establish where the leopard family has moved to during the night. We initially drive to a new area hoping to see a large leopard male, and we are hooked. We can’t wait to see more leopard action, perhaps in a different part of the National Park.

While we are here in the village of Bera, we are staying at a unique heritage home-stay style accommodation called Bera Castle. The Castle offers a distinct style of stay that is most unusual, with authentic surroundings in both the rooms and communal areas.

The dining room walls of the Castle carry fascinating antique images of the owner’s family history and that of the rulers with whom they were closely connected. Bera Castle was built in the late 1800s and is still owned by two brothers of the same family, one of which is Mr. Baljeet Singh, a champion of wildlife conservation and wildlife and birding enthusiast.

While the guest house is not everyone’s cup of tea, it gives us a true opportunity to experience life within a typical Rajasthan country village, which appears to have been frozen in time. In-between the leopard safaris, one early in the morning and one late afternoon, a friendly guide from the guest house takes us on several walks in and around the village, which allows us to get closer to the locals and experience what it would be like to live here.

A different accommodation option is the Bera Safari Lodge, which is equally comfortable, but more intimate. This lodge is in the countryside and consists of three independent cottages – leopards and wild dogs are often seen from the cottages themselves! It is a great alternative, especially for keen birders as well as those looking for leopards.

The village is rarely visited by outsiders because most visitors to Bera are in search of the rich but sometimes elusive wildlife, like the leopards, hyenas, birds and wolves, which are enough to encourage anybody to visit as part of a wildlife holiday in India.

The outskirts of the village welcome another kind of tourist during the nighttime. Leopards regularly make the most of the local cattle and even village dogs on an evening. Those who lose cattle this way are nominally compensated by the government for their loss, but it doesn’t make the event any easier. Monkeys, peacocks and other easy-picking wildlife are also at risk from the leopards, which makes spotting the beast during daylight hours all the more thrilling.

During my time in Bera, I see that the villagers seem to co-exist with the wildlife. However, as ever-curious wildlife enthusiasts continue to find out about the rich offerings in Bera, and indeed take advantage of the Indian wildlife adventure opportunities offered through Wildfoot, I hope that it will assist in the creation of a new National Park.

The protection of this unique area is essential and as we hear plans for a new hotel building project on the outskirts of the village, I hope that the local and national conservation crusaders don’t leave it too much longer.

Those visiting Bera cannot miss the village life experience which, right now, is authentic and a ‘must see’ part of India for any adventurous spirit or wildlife enthusiast.

In his next blog post, Simon continues his journey through Bera and enjoys a birding walk through the village. If you are interested in finding out more about how you can retrace the steps of Simon’s adventure, simply get in touch with Wildfoot’s travel experts today.

Indian Adventure 3

Wildfoot travel expert Simon enjoyed an Indian adventure this summer and recorded his journey for you to enjoy on our blog. Below, Simon travels to Ahmadabad and spots a family of leopards.

Part 3

After a seven hour drive to Ahmadabad, an overnight stay and then another five hour trip to Bera in the south of the state of Rajasthan, we arrive.

There are quicker ways to get to south-west Rajasthan, such as through a direct flight to Bombay and then a three-hour road transfer, but this is a wildlife holiday in India, so I appreciate the journey as it allows me to spot wildlife and take in the beautiful scenery.

The first safari of the day proves extremely promising, with sightings of a leopard mother and two small cubs in the late afternoon. Although they were a great distance away, we can clearly observe them. First, we see the mother on a light brown granite stone, moving at a slow pace for over an hour. While camouflaged in some cases by the various shrubs, other times she is completely in the open, which allows me to capture some great photographs.

Suddenly, out of the blue, we see two cubs next to her. It is clear that, where she has been carefully hiding and resting, she has been trying not to alert anyone to her precious offspring that are 400 metres away on the hillock. Watching the little cubs run and frolic is a special experience. As dusk comes and visibility is low, we head to our accommodation for the evening and reflect on an adventurous day.

In the next part of our Indian adventure series, Simon will explore the wildlife-laden village of Bera. If you would like to find out more about reliving Simon’s adventure yourself, please get in touch with Wildfoot, the luxury travel company, today.

Indian Adventure 2

Throughout the summer, WILDFOOT’s Simon enjoyed an Indian adventure and kept a diary of his travels for you to read. Today, Simon continues his trip to the Sasan Gir Forest National Park.

Part 2

After enjoying our morning safari, our guide takes us for a stroll outside Lion Safari Camp by the river. Amid overbearing midday heat, we enjoy a huge list of water birds and other species, spotting green bee-eater, pied kingfisher, black winged stilt and red wattled lapwing.

The afternoon could not be a better follow on from this morning’s wild fest, as we observe white spotted fantail, Indian nightjar (the same one as this morning), Tickell’s flycatcher, blossom-headed parakeet, crested serpent eagle, cattle egret and another 20 or so other species.

There are seven routes in the Sasan Gir Forest National Park, all of which are very different. The 30 or so jeeps that leave every safari are split into differing routes to keep congestion to a minimum. What we endeavour to do here at WILDFOOT is keep to the back of the group of jeeps, so that those travelling with us can enjoy the peace and tranquillity of not having other vehicles behind, which also allows for improved observations of the surrounding wildlife.

As the sun lowers, we are treated to the best sighting yet of a mother Lioness and two eight-month-old juveniles at one of the many manmade watering holes in the park. After a short wet, they settle down in the last of the warm lingering sunshine while we take all of the snaps we need. This light seems to be ideal for the purpose and lends a certain character that you just don’t find at any other time.

The Asiatic lion used to exist in south-west and north Asia, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. By the 19th century, it had been eradicated from Turkey and even up to 1944, the last corpse of a lion was found on the bank of the River Karun in Iran.

In 1963, the last Persian pride were ruthlessly hunted and killed in Iran. At the time, the local press praised this event as a success, which seems absolutely shocking today knowing that the Asiatic lion is now endangered and survives in Sasan Gir Forest National Park.

You will be pleased to know that these remarkable creatures are now flourishing quite nicely along with the Indian leopard, due to the major understanding of the government with influences from a handful of conservationists who have fought exceptionally hard for this day, even with their near loss of life in some cases.

We leave this park and region with a huge respect for the hard working guides and rangers of the region. We have got to know the very experienced guides in the first couple of days of our Indian wildlife holiday, and their sincere love of the region and its wildlife, not to mention birding, is very evident.

Next time, Simon will travel to Bera village in south-west Rajasthan in search of Indian leopards. If you are interested in discovering more about the Indian experience offered by WILDFOOT, get in touch with the wildlife travel experts today.

Indian Adventure 1

This summer, Simon from WILDFOOT went on an Indian adventure and recorded the highlights from his trip for you to enjoy. Below, Simon travels to India and begins his journey.

Part 1

My flight to Delhi takes around eight hours from London. When I arrive, I check into an airport hotel to sleep for a few hours before my domestic flight to Ahmedabad the following morning.

The flight to Ahmedabad from Delhi took just over an hour, after which it was a seven-hour drive to the region and safari camp. There are easier ways of getting here, like arriving via Bombay and taking a short domestic flight, but this journey allows me time to relax and enjoy my surroundings.

As part of an experience much like WILDFOOT’s India Wildlife Special package, we are staying at the Lion Safari Camp, which is tented accommodation consisting of around 20 twin and double suites. Each of these tents comes with its own a toilet and shower, which is great for those who want to relax privately on an evening. The suites share a reception and restaurant area for engaging with fellow travellers.

We set out at 5am for the nearby reception centre. Every safari starts here and unfortunately, your guide has to go through the same rigmarole every time you go out on safari, which seems overly red-taped! However, if you visit yourself, our Wildfoot travel guide will assist and do most of the legwork, so that your day can begin at 6.30am rather than 5am.

Our experienced guide Jitendra speaks good English and is a dedicated and knowledgeable birder, as well as a general wildlife naturalist. He comes with a professional driver and a Suzuki Gypsy and asks us to spot a rare tiny bird at 30 metres in camouflage undergrowth before the sun rises.

Most of those who come to this region are in search of the Asiatic lion and the fantastic birding opportunities the Sasan Gir Forest National Park offers.

The park is only open from December to June and closes during the monsoon weather period, as accessibility would be impossible in a jeep. Within 30 minutes of entering the park, we see a young lioness, but she is walking away from us, so it’s not the best of sightings.

Monitoring her are allocated national park guides, and each lion or pride is carefully watched and guarded to ensure its welfare and safety. The state is very careful with these creatures. These lions only number 530, including 210 females, so their continual safety is paramount. The lion guide signalled us to approach and take a good view of her from around 50 yards.

The morning is exceptionally good for us, as we manage another three lion sightings and spot an array of other wildlife including spotted deer, blackbuck, grey langur monkey, Indian palm squirrel and over 30 species of birds. The woodpecker, purple sunbirds, large green barbet, red-vented bulbul, rose-ringed parakeet, Indian nightjar, grey wagtail, golden backed woodpecker and collared scops owl are all sighted by us, making it an even more unforgettable morning.

In his next blog, Simon will continue his journey through the Sasan Gir Forest National Park, and talk about the history behind one of the country’s most celebrated nature reserves. If you would like to retrace Simon’s adventures for yourself, please get in touch with the luxury travel agents at WILDFOOT today.

Category: India

WILDFOOT Wildlife & Adventure Specialist