Birdlife Archives - Wildfoot Travel Journal

Forest Adventure Brazil 12

On the final day of Sara’s Brazil wildlife holiday, she spots an anteater and bids a fond farewell to the country she’s called home for the last 12 days. Read her final journal entry right here on the Wildfoot travel blog.

Day 12

Shock horror: it’s another early start! We head out for a morning drive at 5.30 am before breakfast, and spot some playful coatis and a troupe of capuchin monkeys, but unfortunately, the giant anteater escapes us once again.

On returning to the lodge for a last hearty Brazilian breakfast, we spot a pair of great rufous woodpeckers scratching around in a huge pile of dung with their long bills.

It seems a shame to sit inside to eat, so I opt for a bit of alfresco dining on the veranda, determined not to miss out on any action, and I’m rewarded with dozens of hyacinth macaws and blue-fronted parrots joining us.

Without the cool river breeze, I soon notice the ever increasing temperature – it’s up to 38 degrees Celsius now – but refuse to be deterred, so suggest to Jose that we take a short hike on one of the many trails around the lodge.

However, it seems that the heat of the day is also taking its toll on the wildlife, with very little to see or hear apart from a couple of black tegu lizards seeking shelter in a fallen tree trunk.

We admit defeat and return to the lodge for a very-much-needed cold drink, and decide to enjoy our surroundings from the shade of the veranda like our fellow guests. After lunch, we head off to visit a nearby lodge called Pousada Rio Claro, in search of the black-headed parakeet for which it is famous.

The access road to the lodge is great for birding, passing alongside a small stream and through several sections of deciduous forest, where we were able to spot tiger herons, wattled jacanas, rusty-backed antwren and roseate spoonbills among many others.

As we park our car at the reception, a flock of screeching black headed parakeets pass us overhead, as if on cue. Although my mission had been accomplished, it seemed too rude to turn around without speaking to the owner and accepting their kind offer of a cold drink.

The owner seemed thrilled to have a captive audience that he could tell about the anaconda and jaguar that were seen on the grounds of the lodge only the day before by a group of Japanese tourists, but unfortunately, neither could show themselves again during my visit.

Feeling refreshed, we head back to Pousa Alegre to pack, as I leave tonight for Cuiaba, ready for the early morning flight back to the UK. Once again, dinner is delicious and only bettered by the warmth and humour of the owner.

We finally load up the car and make a start on our three-hour journey back to the city when, all of a sudden, Jose slams on the brakes and shouts the infamous word “anteater”! I cannot believe it!

Right in front of us, a giant anteater crosses the road, as though waving us a fond farewell. My trip is complete!

I came with such high expectations in terms of wildlife, but they have been exceeded. I just cannot wait to return!

Forest Adventure Brazil 11

Wildfoot’s Sara spent time on a wildlife viewing Brazilian adventure last summer and kept a journal throughout her trip. On this blog, we’re documenting her journey day-by-day. Today, Sara spots an armadillo.

Day 11

As I open my bedroom door, I am greeted by a sea of birds. Each morning, the staff throw some rice flour down in the courtyard that attracts all sorts of birdlife, including choco chachalacs, bare faced curassows, yellow-billed and red-crested cardinals, baywings, purplish jays and even a stunning orange-backed troupial, so this place really is a birder’s paradise!

I head back into my room and grab my camera, and although I would never describe myself as a hardcore birder, you cannot fail to be impressed by this dazzling display and it’s not long before I fill yet another memory card!

I am finally dragged away with the threat of missing breakfast as our boat driver is already waiting. A jaguar was spotted late last night on the bank not far from the lodge and the driver thinks it might still be in close proximity, so we decide to go and take a look.

We scour the banks for a couple of hours, but it’s not meant to be and none of my favourite big pussy cats are to be seen or heard today, so we call it a day and head back out onto the Transpantaneira and make our way to Pousa Alegre, which is home for our last couple of days.

Despite feeling more like an active cattle ranch than a tourist lodge, Pousa Alegre features on most wildlife itineraries of the Pantanal, because it has a reputation for great tapir and giant anteater sightings.

Although there is no forest or river immediately accessible from the lodge, there is still lots of bird and mammal life to see and on arrival, I am encouraged to head out to a hide on one of its small watering holes as plenty has been spotted here in the last couple of days.

Despite being incredibly warm, we settle in at the hide and bide our time. As always with wildlife, a little bit of patience goes a long way, and we start to notice a steady stream of creatures coming to the water’s edge to quench their thirst, including agoutis, coatimund, peccaries and deer, all unperturbed by our presence.

However, once again it is the bird life that really steals the show with some lovely sightings of a pair of chestnut-bellied guans, a little group of sunbitterns, a chestnut-eared aracari and a greater antistrike among many more.

At sundown, we finally make it to the lodge itself and check in, although my stay here is brief, and no sooner have we finished dinner than we get back into our open-sided safari vehicle for one last night drive.

Although in my heart I am a little bit disappointed that the giant anteater once again eludes me, this is made up threefold by good sightings of two tapirs, several crab eating foxes and unbelievably, an armadillo, which is undoubtedly the most prehistoric creature I’ve ever seen.

I begin to realise how lucky I am when Jose, who has guided in the Pantanal for almost two decades, declares this is also the first armadillo he has ever seen, and unlike the puma earlier in the trip, it allowed me enough time to get some photos of it.

All in all, it was a very successful night drive, and I can’t wait to see what is in store for me tomorrow!

Forest Adventure Brazil 4

Wildfoot’s very own Sara spent much of her last summer on a Brazil wildlife holiday, making notes of the best things about her trip. We’re detailing her experiences on the Wildfoot blog for your perusal. Today, Sara travels to Rio Azul and enjoys some Brazilian food.

Day 4

Breakfast at 6 am may sound early, but it’s my latest start on the trip so far!

I spend my morning doing a spot of kayaking. It’s gentle, and the current is with us which means not much effort is needed. I spot the first sighting of caiman, white-throated toucan and capybara.

I say goodbye to friends at Cristalino and then we make our way back to Alta Floresta, where I am treated to my first real Brazilian Churrascaria! Their freshly grilled skewers of succulent meat are just too good to resist!

Thankfully, my waistline is saved from a third glutinous helping because Carlos is waiting to take us on our three-hour drive to Rio Azul, which will be our lodge for the night.

The drive is made easier by Carlos’s enthusiasm and knowledge of all things Amazon. Along the way, he gives a running commentary of how the area has evolved and what we can expect to see when we arrive. He also wins some brownie points in my book by spotting a tiny burrowing owl popping his head out of its burrow as we hurtle along the dirt track road.

When we arrive at Rio Azul, I realise instantaneously that this is a family run lodge that will offer great personal service. Carlos’s mother is the chef, and his father looks after the lodge upkeep, and I am made to feel like part of the family straight away.

We are immediately taken out on the trails in search of the local monkeys, of which there are five different species to look for. We stumble across some White-whiskered Spider Monkeys straight away, who seem to be in a very inquisitive and playful mood, rattling the branches above our heads in an attempt to hit us with the falling fruits. Further on, we encounter some white-nose bearded saki and the tufted capuchin monkeys.

I am delighted with what we have seen in such a short amount of time, yet Carlos is determined to get us out in the boat before sunset to try and photograph the macaws as they roost each evening in a nearby palm tree.

We are the only guests staying at the lodge, and this is how Rio Azul likes it, allowing them to give you their sole and undivided attention. Carlos’s mother makes our dinner and it’s quite spectacular with freshly caught fish and homemade bread to start and the most glorious banana, cream and chocolate layered dessert to finish. My goodness, I wish I was staying here longer!

Tag: Birdlife

WILDFOOT Wildlife & Adventure Specialist