Sylvia Explores Argentina: A Journey Through Culture, Wine and Wilderness
Wildfoot’s Travel specialist, Sylvia, recently returned from an inspiring journey through Argentina’s diverse landscapes – from the cultural heart of Buenos Aires to the soaring Andes of Mendoza and the tranquil wilderness of Patagonia. In this detailed travel diary, she shares a captivating behind-the-scenes look at luxury lodges, world-class wineries, and unforgettable experiences with local traditions, majestic scenery and vibrant wildlife.
Buenos Aires and Mendoza
Delays, Dashes and Departures
It’s the end of April, and there’s a power outage in Spain. Our flight from London Gatwick to Madrid is delayed. We sit patiently in the VIP lounge awaiting updates from the lovely lounge team, until we are told our flight is ready to depart. We board the aircraft still uncertain if we will make the connecting flight in Madrid. We arrive with 20 minutes to spare and after passing through security we dash towards our gate. We needn’t have worried, the ground staff are boarding all passengers manually. We sighed – we made it! Very soon we were enjoying the hospitality of Air Europa onboard their 787 Dreamliner, destined for Buenos Aires in Argentina.
City Arrival and First Impressions
On arrival into Buenos Aires, we were met by our wonderful host Merina and local guide Lucelia and escorted to our transfer vehicle for the 70-minute drive to the city. We checked into our executive room with a balcony at the Palladio Hotel MGallery by Sofitel situated in Recoleta district and shortly afterwards we were whisked off on a half-day city walking tour, highly recommended.
The tour highlights what Buenos Aires has to offer and suggests where you can explore further. My highlight of the tour was walking through La Boca with its brightly coloured buildings. A photographer’s dream.
History and Horses
The next day after breakfast we visited Recoleta Cemetery, before the crowds. Here you will find the burial site of Eva Perón (Evita). Take a small group tour to hear fascinating stories of its history and the families buried there.
Afterwards we drove out of the city to the heart of la Pampas, to be met by a Gaucho on horseback who escorted our vehicle to the entrance of the Relais & Châteaux property La Bamba de Areco, an elegant estancia which serves as a spot for polo fans to watch and play games during the season. Unfortunately, the polo season had ended, however we were invited to watch an Indian Horse Whispering display whilst listening to Gauchos playing traditional music – it was incredible. Our lunch at the estancia was an asado (Argentine BBQ) taken in the beautiful grounds, underneath the shade of trees.
During lunch our host invited the more adventurous amongst us to go horse riding, leaving others to soak up the serene atmosphere of the property, before heading back to the city.
Mendoza: Gateway to Wine Country
The following morning, we headed to the domestic airport, for our 2-hour flight to Mendoza. We dropped our bags at The Diplomatic Hotel and travelled by road to Puesto Del Indio Hotel and Lodge – this is a new property situated in the hillside with panoramic views of the city below and beyond. The lodge offers activities including hiking, cycling and helicopter flights over the Andes. During our visit we ate at Isidris restaurant – it was a gastronomic delight.
Puesto del Indio is unique – it could be “Your sanctuary on the Mountain”.
Mendoza Wine Tours – Wine Class and Cookery Among the Vines
An early start on the road for our full-day tour of the Central Valley visiting wineries. At 10am, our first stop was Lamadrid Winery – is it too early for wine? A tour of the premises and it was time for our wine tasting class. Our teacher produced 3 wines for us to swirl, smell and then taste 3 times. She explained what we should be able to smell and taste with each wine – and with practice, we could. We were then invited to blend our own wine, bottle it and design the label. I’m pleased to say, the wine made it home and it was a hit!
Our tour continued to the stunningly beautiful property Cavas Wine Lodge, a Spanish Colonial style hotel and a member of Relais & Châteaux. Accommodation is in 17 rooms and villas. Cavas Wine Lodge offers cookery classes, so we donned aprons and Panama hats and were expertly shown how to make some Argentine specialities for our al fresco lunch amongst the vines.
Boutique Wine Hotels and Spa Experiences
We wished we could stay longer, but we had other properties to visit. Next stop, the lovely SB Winemakers House and Spa. Susana Balbo is Argentina’s first female winemaker and specialises in white wines, which are delicious, and wellness. No two suites are the same – each has bespoke bathrooms and handpicked artwork.
We moved on swiftly to Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, a boutique hotel home to an authentic hammam. Accommodation is in the main hotel or individual vineyard lofts, each facing the dramatic soaring Andes – a wonderful place to sit and watch the sun setting.
Our last visit of the day was to the delightful Finca Adalgisa for sundowners. The finca is family-owned, situated in Chacras de Coria close to the village with local shops and restaurants. It has 11 rooms and a pool, as well as a small winery and kitchen serving mouthwatering food. The owner Gabriella Fulotti invites guests to make themselves feel at home; she offers a friendly and personal service.
Uco Valley and Unforgettable Landscapes
We explored the high-altitude wine destination Uco Valley. The landscape is unbelievable – it’s autumn, the grape harvest is completed, and the vines have turned flaming orange, contrasting with the colours of the Andes and the glorious blue sky. My mind is blown. I needed to capture this moment in time – I knew I would be inspired to get out my canvas and paints once home.
We were on our way to Casa de Uco. We sampled their wines and toured the winery, while the landscape called to us. We wanted to stay longer to take a cycle tour of the vineyards, but we were running late for our lunch reservation at:
The Vines Resort and Spa, “A Stunning Laid Back Luxury Resort” at the foot of the Andes offering 21 luxury villas, with more being planned. Here you can cycle, take a horse ride or 4×4 experience, trek, or go to winemaking camp, available February to April.
By the way, Chef Francis Mallmann didn’t disappoint us with his regional inspired dishes.
Mendoza City Vibes
We returned in the late afternoon to the vibrant city of Mendoza offering a variety of shops, bars and market stalls selling local handmade crafts. Sit back and relax in Plaza Independencia, listen to live music and watch the world go by before heading off for dinner in one of the many restaurants the city has to offer.
Mendoza isn’t just about wine making, although it does play a big part. It has so many outdoor activities on offer to you such as:
- Climbing the highest South American peak, Aconcagua, or taking a scenic trail
- Exploring the gardens, fountains and lakes at Parque General San Martín
- Climbing to the top of Cerro de la Gloria for panoramic views of the city and the Andes
- Enjoying a day trip to Potrerillos Dam for fabulous views and water sports
- Craving the thrill of rafting down the Mendoza River
- Or for the more daring, paragliding over the Andes
We invite you to stay in Mendoza – it will not disappoint.
Next Stop: Bariloche
We are on our way to Bariloche, Patagonia.
Bariloche is situated in North Patagonia’s Lake District, nestled in the Nahuel Huapi National Park, surrounded by stunningly beautiful landscapes of crystal blue lakes, forests and snowcapped mountains, home to deer and soaring condors.
Our flight from Mendoza takes 2 hours and we arrive mid-afternoon. After collecting our bags, we head off to our home for the next 2 nights, Peuma Hue (“Place of Dreams”).
If self-driving in Bariloche, hire a 4×4 vehicle – many roads are tarmacked, but there are uneven mud tracks too.
A Warm Patagonian Welcome
We are warmly welcomed with a delicious afternoon tea and are invited to partake in the ritual of Mate, a traditional South American caffeine-rich infused herbal drink which symbolises friendship and hospitality.
As darkness settled, we were shown to our rooms. We had been allocated a 4-bedroom log cabin, Casa de Los Radales, and once inside we were greeted by a roaring log fire. We quickly made ourselves comfortable on the snug sofas and felt the “hygge” of our surroundings.
Dinner and breakfast are taken in the separate restaurant within the grounds of Peuma Hue – a short walk from our accommodation.
Stargazing and Serenity
Before sunrise the next morning, we headed out to view the dark sky. There was a frost underneath our feet. It was cold, but the clear sky offered us shooting stars and tremendous views of the Milky Way. What a way to start our day!
Peuma Hue is situated on Lake Gutierrez, 25 minutes’ drive from Bariloche town. It is surrounded by breathtaking scenery. The moment you arrive, you can feel the serenity of your surroundings.
Some of the activities on offer include: guided walks/treks to explore the mountain trails, kayaking on the lake, horse riding, yoga, or you can just simply relax and immerse yourself in the beauty and tranquillity of Patagonia.
Local Flavours and Famous Views
After our morning activity, we explored Bariloche. We visited a microbrewery, Patagonia Cerveza, with views overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi, and sampled their beers with lunch.
Later, we took a chair lift ride for even more spectacular views of the Andes and the lake.
We moved on to visit the iconic Llao Llao Hotel, one of the oldest properties in the area on the edge of the lake. Its elegant Bustillo Wing (167 rooms) and Moreno Wing (43 rooms) suit all tastes. For golfers, the hotel has an 18-hole golf course, as well as a multitude of other activities including bird watching, mountain biking, fly fishing and archery.
Our day travelling around Bariloche finished with a sundowner cruise on the lake and a scrumptious dinner in a lakeside restaurant.
Final Farewells and Hidden Gems
The following morning, we said our goodbyes to our new friends and horses and visited two properties closer to Bariloche town:
- Villa Huinid Bustillo Hotel, facing the lake, offers 70 guestrooms and is surrounded by 5 hectares of forests, mountains and gardens – yet only 5 minutes’ drive from the town.
- Alma del Lago Suites and Spa, a convenient 5-minute walk from the town centre, situated on the lake with 92 rooms.
We had some limited free time to explore the town – time enough to visit the plentiful chocolatiers lining the high street, before heading back to the airport for our flight back to Buenos Aires.
There and Back Again
Our final night in Argentina was at the Sofitel Recoleta, a centrally located hotel. After a quick change, we were whisked off for dinner at the Faena Hotel, a glamorous property with dramatic red and black décor.
We were delighted to hear we had been invited to the hotel’s Rojo Tango Show; the show is an intimate affair where dancers perform on a small stage and interact with their audience.
A perfect way to end our time in Argentina.
Optional Route to Chile
NB: If you didn’t want to return to Buenos Aires, why not take a scenic 12-hour journey that connects Bariloche to Puerto Varas, Chile – just 30 minutes from Puerto Montt – via a series of bus and boat rides across three lakes? This offers travellers a unique journey to traverse the Andes Mountains and experience the beauty of the forests, mountains and waterfalls of the Argentine and Chilean Lake District. Chile awaits!
Get In Touch
For help and guidance in planning your own Argentine adventure, get in touch with our expert team on 0161 568 2002, or send an enquiry.
